At the first acquaintance with the device, it may seem that the multicooker does not turn on for technical reasons. Of course, even household appliances from trusted manufacturers fail. But most of the problems are solved without the involvement of specialists.
The slow cooker has stopped working and will not turn on anymore - causes and do-it-yourself repairs
Before blaming the manufacturer for a breakdown, it is worth analyzing the situation. Perhaps you just do not know all the intricacies of the operation of the device. It is also necessary to remember what happened at the time of its last inclusion.
Possible reasons
So, you took a new multicooker out of the box, downloaded the products, and are trying to start it. But for some reason she does not want to turn on. In this case, it is not difficult to fix the problem: most likely, you just incorrectly installed the bowl or overloaded it with products above the division (see photo). The container must be removed and reinstalled. It is necessary to check the degree of utilization of the device.
A similar problem may also occur when:
- incorrectly set cooking mode: for each type of food a certain temperature is required; if it is violated, overheating protection is triggered;
- excessive loading of products above the level of divisions located in the upper part of the bowl and, as a result, excess boiling liquid gets on the heating element;
Multicooker loading above the last mark is not allowed
- lack of liquid: the bowl in this case overheats, the sensor immediately activates and turns off the device;
- low voltage or lack of electricity;
- contaminated contacts when food pieces are ingested: they must be cleaned;
- blockage of the pressure valve integrated into the multicooker lid: in this case, it is enough to simply rinse it
- bowl deformation: this defect is clearly visible even externally;
- factory defective temperature sensor: the last two problems are not common, but they can still be.
Defects such as a burnt microcircuit or a failure of the temperature sensor are less common. You will not be able to figure it out yourself without special knowledge in this case - you will need to contact a service center.
Important! Do not forget that the independent opening of a product under warranty, the workshop has the right to refuse to perform free maintenance and repair.
After choosing the cooking mode, do not forget to press the "Start" button
Proper operation
Often it seems to users that the multicooker is disconnected ahead of time. The reason for this very often lies only in violation of the operating rules. So, interruption of heating before the set time can occur when:
- hit on the heating element of bulk products or moisture;
Moisture or food particles must not get on the heating element.
- the cooking temperature set incorrectly for this product; in this case, it is also possible to operate the built-in overheat protection;
- burning the bottom of the bowl;
- exceeding the set temperature due to clogging of the pressure valve located in the cover of the multicooker (it must be removed and cleaned);
- factory defective temperature sensor: a similar problem occurs infrequently, but it is also quite possible;
- defect in the bowl, due to which food gets on the heating element.
In order for the multicooker to serve for a long time, it is worth remembering the basic rules of its operation:
- set it on a flat hard surface;
- connect the device to a working outlet with grounding;
- Before switching on, make sure that the cover is closed tightly;
- after washing the bowl, it is necessary to dry it or wipe it dry; It is forbidden to put wet dishes on the stove of the multicooker;
- the pressure valve located in the lid of the device is also not just wiped with a dry cloth, but washed thoroughly.
The steam valve integrated in the cover requires cleaning
Additional reasons why the device will not turn on
Often, users are perplexed by the idle timer, which keeps track of the cooking time. There may be several reasons for this:
- the lid is not tightly closed: the time counter starts working only when the device reaches a certain temperature, through the slot in the lid the heat quickly evaporates, preventing the heating element from warming up, in which case the timer will remain inactive;
- failure of factory settings;
- automatic control system error;
- failure of the control sensor.
Advice! In order to eliminate the likelihood of a malfunction of the electronics, it is necessary to reset the settings, and then turn on the multicooker again. Perhaps this will help solve the problem.
The slow cooker will only start counting when the lid is tightly closed
Instructions for repairing the device at home
In most cases, you can figure out why the slow cooker refuses to work. But, before proceeding with its analysis, it is worth paying attention to the error code displayed on the display. A detailed list of such codes must be in the instructions. Studying them will allow you to significantly save time and nerves - the manufacturer always indicates ways to eliminate each of these errors.
For example, the E5 code means that the shutdown is associated with automatic protection against overheating. Most likely, the tank is just not enough liquid. But this same error may indicate a burnout of the temperature sensor. The presence of errors E1 and E2 indicates the ingress of moisture or loose products into the device or problems with the thermal relay.
Error E4 is more serious - it means a breakdown of the electronic board. Although the reason may lie in the clogging of the pressure sensor. Only after a thorough study of the instructions and error codes is it worth starting the repair directly.
Error Code E2
Replacing the thermal fuse
If the display does not light up and the crock-pot does not turn on, first check that the power cord is working. Often the lack of power is also connected with a weak connection with the connector - the plug must be inserted tightly there, until it stops.
If the cord is in order, it is worth checking the thermal fuse - it may have blown. According to service workers, 50% of all breakdowns are associated with this particular problem. You can eliminate it yourself, without the help of specialists.
In appearance, this part looks like a small metal cylinder. Its main purpose is to protect the device from overheating. When the thermal fuse is heated to a temperature of 170 ° C, it breaks the electrical circuit, and the multicooker stops working.
To replace this part, you must disconnect the multicooker from the network, disassemble the device (removing the bottom cover) and find the black or red wire. A thermal fuse is soldered into it, protected from above by an PVC insulating tube. This tube must be moved and the probe tested for resistance - it should be zero.
If the probe is not at hand, the wires can be temporarily connected without a thermal fuse. If the slow cooker is working, the problem is found.To replace a burned-out thermal fuse, it is necessary to cut the burned-out part with nippers and insert a new one, connecting it to the wire using clips. Since this part is non-polar, it can be installed in any direction.
The thermal fuse is soldered into the red or black wire
Contact oxidation
The appearance of the error E4 on the display most likely means that the contacts have oxidized. This often happens when the multicooker is overloaded, when boiling liquid enters the appliance. A slow cooker may simply refuse to work as a result.
To search for oxidized contacts, it is necessary to disassemble it by unscrewing the screws on the bottom cover and disconnecting the cable connecting the power supply and the board. If contaminants and grease residues are found on the boards, they are carefully cleaned with a soft brush dipped in alcohol. The contaminated contacts are cleaned with sandpaper or a wire brush.
If the multicooker malfunctions, check that the contacts are not oxidized
Thermistor Test
Thermal resistances (thermistors) in this device are connected to the control unit with black and white connectors. The white connector (blue wires extend from it) is connected to a thermistor located in the lid of the device. Black with white wires is connected to a resistor located in the bottom of the glass.
If after checking the probe of the multimeter it is found that the thermal resistance is zero or infinity, it requires replacement. Their nominal value for each manufacturer may be different - it must be clarified. For example, in a Redmond RMC-M23, it is 50 kOhm. In other models, it may be different.
Ten testing
Ten (tubular heater) in a slow cooker fail frequently. If there is a suspicion of a malfunction, they call him a multimeter or a pointer tester. You can use a phase indicator.
The resistance of the spiral in different models of multicookers may vary - it depends on the power of the device. With a dangling spiral or a short circuit in the heater, instead of real resistance, the multimeter will show the value “1” (infinity). Operation of the device in this case will be impossible - a replacement of PETN will be required.
You can check the operation of the heating element by connecting it in series with a conventional bulb designed for 220 V. In this case, a ten is connected to one end of the plug with a cord, and any bulb is connected to the other. If it lights up, the heating element is in good condition. If not, it requires a replacement.
Multicooker device
Replacing the temperature sensor
This breakdown is a fairly common cause of failure of the multicooker. Since the temperature sensor is located in the lid of the device, when it is opened and closed, thin wires often break off. As a result, the error E1 (malfunction of the heating element) appears on the display.
To get to the temperature sensor, you must:
- remove the cover and unscrew it;
- release the sensor from foil tape;
- Find the sensor connector and disconnect it; if the connection is soldered, it will need to be cut off;
- replace stranded wires with similar ones in length and cross section; fiberglass is more difficult to find for fluoroplastic, but the cover can also be removed from the old wire; it is necessary to purchase crimping elements for fastening;
- strip the wires with a knife (it is impossible to melt the fluoroplastic);
- connect the new wires to the ends of the temperature sensor using the terminals, crimping them;
- insulate the connection with silicone tubes (old ones can be used);
- connect the temperature sensor to the control board;
- tighten the bolts on the cover;
- check the operation of the multicooker.
Multicooker Thermal Sensor
