Sometimes it happens that a washing machine that has served the owners for a long time breaks for one reason or another. In this case, the choice arises: buy a new one or repair the washing machine yourself. This can be done only by understanding the causes of the breakdown and finding out whether the washing machine itself is repairable.
To begin with, it is important to study the design of the washing machine, the role of each part. Thus, by the first signs, you will be able to find out which of the parts requires replacement and what is damage to the washing machine.
The scheme of the washing machine
Most models have a front load type. We will analyze the repair of these models at home in more detail in this material.
Control block
The control unit consists of a panel and a board. Outside, we see buttons for setting the washing mode and water temperature. Many of the models are equipped with temperature and water level sensors. All signals received from pressing the buttons are transmitted using a microprocessor. It is from this detail that the setting of available modes and programs depends. In all models, the washing machine is serviced automatically. The control unit is an essential part of the internal structure of the washing machine. The work and execution of the given commands depends on it.
The internal device of the control unit
If suddenly the machine starts to “fail”, for example, it incorrectly executes the given commands, this is a sure sign that one of the microcircuits has burned down. Most likely, the problem is the breakdown of the board. Less commonly, sensors begin to malfunction. It is not possible to repair the board. Most likely, you will have to purchase a new one. The board is expensive, but you do not need to have any technical skills to connect: just insert a new board into the slot where it was burnt.
The electronic filling of the washing machine burns out from sudden surges. A short circuit, for example, may cause a malfunction. Watch carefully the state of the keypad, and as soon as the malfunctions begin, unscrew the overlap and remove the burnt microcircuit.
Actuators in the washing machine hopper
Electronic filling gives commands to all other components of the washing machine, namely, the drum, valve and other performing spare parts responsible for washing.
However, the causes of failures can be not only automated parts, but also the breakdown of other important spare parts. For example, the door stopped closing. This is a sure sign that the lock on the door is broken. The washing machine will not start the cycle if the door is open. In this case, you will need to buy a new lock. In the store you have to either choose a spare part in accordance with the brand and dimensions of your model, or provide the seller with a broken one, so that it is easier to pick up with the right parameters.
There is nothing complicated in replacing a door lock: just unscrew the screws that secure the lock, remove the defective part and replace it with a working one. The whole operation will take you more than five minutes.
Replacing the lock on the hopper door
Often problems arise with heating water during washing. The thermoelectric heater, or TEN, is responsible for this. In this case, you may find that the temperature that is not set in the settings is displayed on the sensor. This is the main sign of an element breaking.Repair ten is for the most part impossible. You will have to purchase a new heater by completely removing the old one.
Often the pump, the pump responsible for supplying water to the tank and draining the used one, breaks as a result of prolonged use. Without a heating element and a pump, the operation of the washing machine is impossible.
Washing machine hopper
In the washing machine, the hopper occupies almost the entire space of the housing, since it contains a drum for loading laundry. The drum is connected quite freely and can rotate around its horizontal axis. At its level there is ten and some other sensors, the indicators of which are displayed on the display. Also, bells for filling and pumping water are connected to the drum.
Shock absorbers and springs help hold the drum tank in place
Most often, the tank is made of plastic. Depending on the brand of the washing machine, the tank may be collapsible and non-collapsible. In the first case, disconnecting the tank from the washing machine is quite simple, as well as replacing non-working parts. Such washing machines are more expensive, but their high cost is fully justified, given the difficulty of disconnecting a non-separable tank.
Shock absorber repair
If you encounter a phenomenon like a strange tapping during washing, then the tank begins to knock on the case. This is the main sign of damage to the shock absorbers, the main regulators of the tank. Shock absorbers are expensive, so more and more users of washing machines are faced with the question of how to repair the shock absorber with their own hands. The process is quite complex and for its successful implementation it is important to follow the step-by-step instructions in accuracy:
- First thing, remove the top cover. To do this, unscrew the bolts and slide it back.
- Unscrew the containers for powder and conditioner. The bottom plastic panel also needs to be removed.
- Carefully, without damaging the wiring, unscrew the top panel.
- Loosen the metal collar and remove the cuff.
- Remove all the bolts and plugs that hold the front of your washing machine.
- Unscrew the door lock from the hopper.
- Remove the casing facade.
- Now below, under the tank, you can see the shock absorbers. It remains to unscrew only a couple of parts and you can begin to replace or repair.
- Remove the bolts securing the upper damper to the housing.
Now you can start the repair. To establish the shock absorbers, you will need to replace the liner in the housing. It is worth noting, however, that not always repairing shock absorbers brings the expected results. Everything is pretty relative. In other cases, the machine after such a repair can work another 3-4 years, and sometimes such a repair is enough for 5 washes maximum. Most likely, you will have to purchase a new shock absorber. Such parts cost an average of about 3 thousand rubles. Expensive, but so you will have a guarantee that the washing machine will serve you for many years to come.
Symptoms of AEG washing machine breakdown
Depending on the manufacturer, washing machines have a number of individual features, and different measures may be required to eliminate the consequences of a breakdown.
AEG brand washing machines are considered one of the most reliable in the home appliance market. This model has an “anatomy” similar to other German brands, so if you have Siemens or Bosch washing machines, the disassembly instructions will come in handy during the repair of one of the parts.
So, what are the signs of a broken AEG brand washing machine?
- When the drum rotates with your hand, rattle and rattle are heard
- Water does not reach the tank
- The drain mechanism does not work
- Water does not heat up to the set temperature
For convenience, the manufacturer equipped the washing machines of this model range with a display on which, in case of a malfunction, an error code will be displayed. If you suspect a breakdown, run the diagnostic mode.
- Set the programmer off mode
- Press the “Start” and “Exit” keys simultaneously and hold for a while
- Turn on the machine and turn the programmer clockwise - one division to the right
- Continue to hold down the Start and Exit keys until the error code appears on the display. You can find all codes and their decryption in the instructions for the washing machine of this brand.
Keypad with display
If one of the malfunctions is detected, you will have to carry out repair and installation work with your own hands, or call the master at home. As with all German-made washing machines, in order to get to important details, you will need to remove the front of the case.
It should be noted that in AEG machines, module replacement is expensive. Sometimes the cost of these spare parts is estimated at 40% of the cost of the washing machine itself. AEG brand cars break down over time, after ten years of operation. In this case, it’s easier for you to purchase a new car. If the same failure was detected after power surges, then you only need to replace the electronic filling.
Repair of washing machines of the Hotpoint Ariston brand
The hotpoint washing machine Ariston is considered one of the most reliable models made in Italy. Most frequent causes of damage to washing machines This model range are blockages and hard water. As a result of sedimentation of scale, complications in the operation of mechanisms begin. Often the pipes are clogged and it can normally be pumped or drained with tap water, as a result of which pressure on the output elements increases, and, accordingly, leakage is inevitable.
The following factors may indicate the presence of faults:
- The machine is very buzzing. Wherein pump does not work, water stagnates in the tank. This means the channels are clogged. Disconnect the machine from the mains and the water supply and flush all available parts: filter, pump, drain hose.
- The system gives an error code related to the inability to heat water for washing. In this case, the washing does not start, or occurs in cold water.
In the second case, you probably have to change the water heating element. To do this, you need to remove the service hatch located at the bottom of the wall from the back. Having unscrewed the fixing self-tapping screws, you easily get to the “insides” of the washing machine. By removing the latches, you will find two large contacts with the fastener in the middle. You have found ten. To remove it, unscrew the screw and carefully, swinging from side to side, remove the heater.
Note! The washing machines of Indesit, Ariston, LG, Candy, Ardo, Beko, Samsung, Whirpool brands have a similar structure, so this repair and parsing method is suitable for all the above models
Repair of washing machines Electrolux, Zanussi
Swedish manufacturers of household appliances are considered one of the most reliable. At the same time, washing machines of this brand have their own structural features.
Most often, there are problems with the pump system in the Electrolux brand washing machine, namely:
- The washing machine pumps water for a long time
- Waste water does not drain
- Water does not flush powder from the bath
- The machine cannot heat water to the set temperature
- The machine does not rinse
- Skips the spin mode.
- When turned on, automatic mode starts almost immediately
All problems with the supply and passage of water are associated with clogged valves. Clearing them is quite simple. For this should take apart the washing machine, pull out valves, hoses, filters, depending on the type of problem and rinse thoroughly. We also recommend installing flow filters inside the machine. They are more reliable and do not allow dirt particles from the water pipe to enter the drum.
If the water does not heat up, then it is defective ten for the washing machine. To get to the "insides", you will need to remove the back of the case. Replacing ten is a simple matter and is carried out according to the same scheme as in any other model.However, in Swedish washing machines, the problem with heating the water may not be due to a malfunction of the heating element, but in the idle control board. In this case, you should check the reliability of the connection of the connectors and wires, and if one of them is loose or burned out, replace or fix it in the connector.
Conclusion
All washing machines, regardless of brand, are similar in structure. The reasons for their failure can be as follows: worn mechanisms, clogged pipes and hoses. You can resort to the help of the master, or repair yourself. To do this, it is important to know the root cause of the malfunction. For preventive purposes, it is recommended to periodically check the hoses and flush the filters. Also remember to use hard water softeners to prevent scale formation. By following simple preventative measures, you can significantly extend the life of your washing machine.
